Jersey

Jersey or also jersey, is a general term for light to medium weight knitwear. The products have a soft touch, drape well, are wrinkle-resistant, slightly stretchable, and elastic. The surface is smooth or slightly textured.

According to some definitions, it refers exclusively to weft knits with so-called jersey finishing (fulling to reduce elasticity so the product is more suitable for outerwear). However, the name is also used for warp knits that resemble fabrics made from wool or viscose yarns. In older Czech technical literature, jersey is described as crepe knitwear or fabric, while English sources present entirely different versions of this textile's finishing (special dyeing, oil impregnation, etc.).

Usually, single and double jersey are distinguished, for which the English terms single and double jersey (still only) are used in Czech. Some experts define jersey as a product from circular knitting machines, where single jersey is made with one set of needles (with one cylinder), and double jersey with two needle systems (e.g., double-cylinder or cylinder and dial). The name originates from the island of Jersey, where fishermen wore vests with a smooth surface knitted from coarse wool. Single jersey is a commercial term for weft knits in a single-faced weave. Compared to double jersey, the knits are less stretchable and are used for underwear, bed linen, and light outer garments.

Double jersey is a collective term for double-layer weft knits, based on double-sided or interlock weaves. It is created by knitting single-face rows, partly with backed or tuck loops. The knitting machine must be equipped with two needle beds. For example, the milano-rib weave (diagram on the right) is formed in three rows. In the first row, the needles of both beds knit together, in the second row, only the front bed works, and in the third, only the needles of the back bed are active. Light ribbing (created in the 2nd and 3rd row of the knit) can be seen on both sides of the material. Other jersey knits, unless jacquard-patterned, have a less textured surface, drape well, and do not curl.

They are usually produced on circular machines with finer gauging than E 10 (at least 4 needles per cm). Known types include bourret, overnit, milano, and colored jacquard patterns. They are most commonly used for outerwear and underwear. The first machine capable of knitting double jersey was made by the former British company Berridge in the early 1950s.

Woven jersey (also called crepe-jersey) is mostly made from greige silk with a high twist in a Panama weave, with the weft interwoven alternately: 2 right-twist threads and 2 left-twist threads. It is a fabric with a soft touch, similar to crepe-romain, and is used for dresses and jackets. In recent years, textile commerce has offered knits (T-shirts, leggings, underwear) under the label woven jersey (woven jersey, gewebter Jersey) in various languages. No commentary from textile or language experts on this phenomenon has yet been published.